I flew into Peru through Lima to the Southern City of Arequipa. Don't ask me why I chose it, it was just cheaper than flying to Cusco. But what a nice surprise when I got there. At over 2000 meters of altitude, it was a good place to spend a few easy days to let my body adjust to high altitude and the lack of oxygen that goes with it. The entire city center is build from white volcanic rock which gives the city a very clean look. There was an incredible monestary from the 1500's to visit, as it is a town within a town and was home to some 500 nuns. Surrounding the city are the Misti volcano and other snow capped peaks over 6000 meters high. While I was admiring these things, I took comfort in knowing that my body was busy multiplying its red cells so that I can absorb more oxygen during my hike in the Colca Canyon which is also nearby.
In Arequipa, one is bombarded with offers to trek the canyon from countless travel agencies that line the streets near the main square. After studying the options, I chose to go it solo by taking public transport partly because I was told that there were animals on the bus and I didn't want to miss out on that. Well, there were no animals but the bus ride was nonetheless very interesting. Before the bus arrived, there was a semblance of a line, but as soon as the bus appeared, all hell broke loose and it was each on his own to fight for getting on the bus. I'll just say that being a woman and carrying a baby on your back did not warrant any special treatment. I managed to get on without having my conscience hurt too much and off we went for a rocky 3 hour ride to the canyon ridge village of Cabanaconde where the road ends and the mule paths start.
In Cabanaconde, I heard Quechua spoken for the first time. It is the language of the Inca's and it is still the firs language of many. I befriended a shop keeper who taught me some: imay-naya-kaSHANki means "How are you?." I wanted to learn more but once the shopkeeper learned that I was unmarried and traveling alone, she would not teach me anything else until I learned to say "I want a woman" in Quechua on which my brain froze and with it ended my lesson.
Hiking on the mule paths, there are no distances indicated (nor are there any signs for that matter) so I do not know how much I hiked other than it was 6 hours the first day, 5 the second and 3 the last. The hike was mostly vertical, up and down the canyon, often to the side of a cliff where one can easily die should one deliberately step into the void. The reward was incredible views of the deep river, sheer cliff, snow capped mountains, and terraced village hanging somewhere in between. The mule paths are their only connection to the outside world. (Actually, they have cell phone reception, though no electricity, so re-charging the phones is a big headacke for them) There were hostals in the villages with a basic but clean and warm bed, and food, often spaguetti bolognese. Don't ask me why.
Next I am off to Puno to kayak on lake Titicaca and visit floating island villages made entirely out of reeds. At over 3000 meters (9000 feet) of altitude, my kayak might as well come with wings.
The good news about being in Peru is that I CAN COMMUNICATE! Finally! It was not me, it was the freaking dialects of the Argentinians and even more the Chileans that was throwing me off. I can communicate without any problem now with Peruvians who actually speak proper Spanish. What a relief.
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